|Jacket - Before|
|Jacket - After|
I've been a bit obsessed with antique military style jackets, but haven't been able to justify making one yet so this seemed like a good excuse to play with the idea.
I cut off about 6" in length and removed the lining. Fitted it by taking in the side seams and princess seams which also narrowed the shoulders. Straightened the front of the jacket by removing the lapels and added a button band. Shaped the hem to add the points and used red felt to overlay the collar and the sleeves. Added shoulder epaulets made from the welt pockets and red piping to the hem.
I managed to cover the old buttonholes up on the front with braid but you can see where I zig-zagged them closed on the inside.
I used a hem facing - seemed the easiest way to finish off the shaped hem and then I handstitched down the lining.
The chinese knots are made from braid which was fused then hand stitched to the front of the jacket. The buttons were from my stash.
I was really impressed with the shoulders and sleeve cap supports inside the jacket - I've been annoyed at how mine have been collapsing and after looking at this I have been way undersupporting the sleeve cap. This had a layer of horsehair (or hessian?) and then another layer of a thick wool felt that was doubled over and stitched to the shoulder pad.
The front button band was too thick to try and sew buttonholes so I use press studs. Mine have always looked crappy but this time I followed this video of Susan Khaljie's, I used 2 strands of upholstery thread which had been waxed and they turned out pretty damn good if I do say so myself!
The only thing I wish I'd done differently is make this to fit me, not the daughter!