Tuesday, July 22, 2014

Sewaholic 1403: Yaletown dress

I was lucky enough to pattern test this and I've been wanting to show it off since!

Its the new Sewaholic Yaletown dress and blouse. I made the dress mainly because I had enough fabric but I do want to make the blouse at a later date.

Fabric is a rayon from Darn Cheap Fabrics in Melbourne.

I made a sz16 with a couple of adjustments;
  • Graded out to a sz 18 at the bust/waist 
  • 1" FBA rotated down into gathers 
  • 1" wide back adjustment 
  • Took out 3cm of bodice length 
  • Shaped the bottom of the bodice (Once I had the bodice sewn I put it on, pinned out the gathers then marked a straight line around)
  • For once I didn't have to enlarge the sleeves so they are quite generous in size. 

I love this dress, it has pockets and an elastic waist that's hidden by the belt. I like that the facings are topstitched down so cant flip out and I like the added button at centre front to stop the wrap gaping. It such a pretty spring dress, just need some nice weather to wear it in!

Monday, July 21, 2014

Vogue 8774: Jeans

I've seen some great jeans pop up in the blogging world lately and it reminded me I need another pair! The last pair I made have shrunk in length (even after prewashing the denim twice) and are now in my refashion pile to be cut down into shorts.

The pattern is my TNT -  Sewaholic Thurlow legs onto the waist/hips of Vogue 8774 adjusted with my pants block. I added 1.5cm to the front inner leg with this pair as the last version had some pulling at the front.

This denim is from Spotlight tagged as Bradmill denim. Surprisingly nice, firm but still with some stretch. I bought a craftsy class back at Christmas called Sewing Designer Jeans. I highly recommend it, Angela Wolf is great in the videos and I found it really interesting about how to distress denim. I'm not sure how successful I was at it, the denim went a different colour blue instead of fading it out but I'm hoping the look will soften after a few washes. I don't think I took it quite far enough sanding it but I was worried about wearing the denim too thin.

Top stitching is with gutterman upholstery thread and the same colour in a plain polyester thread for all of the bar tacks.

The waistband has elastic in it again.

I used a great tip from Lasewist about using tape to as a template for the front fly stitching. Worked an absolute treat and will be doing it everytime I sew jeans from now on.

I made these extra long, I've always loved jeans that are a little bit too long. Comes from years of buying rtw that was too short that too long feels like a luxury.



Sunday, July 13, 2014

Sewaholic 1201: Kitty cat version

This jumper makes me so happy! I found this fleece fabric in Spotlight on a day trip to Warrnambool, its been sitting on my sewing desk for a few weeks now while I've been thinking about it. I had ideas of a hoodie or a peacoat but seeing Bobbin and Baste's top helped me simplify and make a basic jumper.

I've made the Renfrew top before but I wanted a lot more ease in this top so its a sz16 at the shoulders and graded out to approximately a 22-24 from the armholes down, plus added an extra 1" to upper arm width and did a 1" FBA which I eased into the side seam.
I made a muslin out of stash fleece and wore it around yesterday and then also added 2" to the length, forward shoulder of 1", lowered the neckline by 1" and dropped the armhole down by 1".

The pocket is a patch pocket traced from a hoodie I have.

I twin-needled the neck band and wristbands.

Insides are all overlocked.

The hem band could be a little tighter, I haven't worked with ribbing before and didn't realise how tight it needs to be sewn on.
I need more jumpers like this, its the perfect weekend top especially with the weather we've been having, plus it has cats on it!

Monday, July 7, 2014

Colette 1010: Lady Grey coat

Every time I sew a Colette pattern I wonder why I don't sew more of them, their block fits me perfectly. Case in point - I made a sz18, petited the bodice and added 2" to upper back width (I went a little overboard actually and could have gotten away with about half that I think). I also played with the armholes a bit. I've found a lot of coats I've made have been very binding in the armholes, I used to think it was the arm and back needing more width but I don't think it is. I reckon its to do with having forward shoulders, I need the armholes shifted around a bit, more at the back and less at the front. After I had constructed the bodice muslin I put the coat on and marked where I wanted the armhole to be, and trimmed off about 3/4" at the front. It worked a treat and I have a lot of movement in this coat so it will be something I do to every jacket I make now and its stopped the bunching I normally get at the front armhole.

Fabric is a wool blend suiting from Lincraft. Its a herringbone weave with a dark brown and a light blue that almost looks green in the light. It was really tight to fit it out of the material amount I had, I only had a bit over 2m and the recommended amount is 4m. I did have to piece the back and the belt is a real mish-mash, all the left over scraps I pieced together then fused. It worked out surprisingly well and if you don't look too close its not even noticeably that not all the piece run in the same direction.

Its all fusibly tailored, I used armoweft and fused the front, side front, facings and upper back plus all the hemlines. The lining is sunsilky and a left over scraps for the arms. I haven't done a jacket with a free hanging lining before, came up surprisingly pretty.

I used bias binding and piping for the edges (it was from the Alannah Hill outlet in Melbourne).

I was disappointed with the pockets, they are quite small and mine hung down under the lining (I had to tack them up). If I made it again I would change the pockets, maybe make them square and secure them into the front seamlines, or do single welt pockets.

I've had a bit of a blogging break, unintentional and it stretched longer than I thought. I tend to get a bit wrapped up in my hobbies and with blogging its easy for me to fall into the trap of sewing because I blog instead of blogging because I sew. So it was nice to remind myself that's not what blogging is about and to have some unpressured sewing. I do think I will start blogging more of my wadders and muslins that didn't work out, just as a reminder to myself of what works and what doesn't.
I'm glad to be back again though!

Monday, May 19, 2014

Simplicity 9384: Snow White dress

I made this last weekend for my friends daughter. I picked this pattern up at the op-shop, it's OOP now. I made a straight sz 4 for her, she's 3 so I think its very close to a RTW size.

Not much to say about it, the instructions are good, the sleeves are fiddly but end up nicely poufy.

Fabric is all cotton broadcloth from Spotlight, zipper is from my stash. The dress is unlined and has facings (I was really tempted to stitch them down but have left them for now as they are sitting inside nicely).
The cape isn't meant to have fastenings but I added a couple of plastic snaps to it.

I didn't bother making the dickey, I did think about attaching the big white collar to the cape but this way the cape can be a generic superhero one!

Wednesday, May 7, 2014

Style Arc: Sailor Sue Palazzo Ponte pants

I've made this pattern a few times now (bengaline version here, and a few unblogged about pairs in Ponte). I love the ponte versions, they are my go to work pants but the cheaper ponte does seem to pill up really fast. This ponte is from Rathdowne Fabrics, it has a light diagonal stripe through it and is soft as butter while still being medium weight. It will be interesting to see how it wears.

As much as I love a pull-on pant I do miss pockets so this pair has a zippered pocket in the front. I put the zipper in facing the opposite way that I wanted but it doesn't worry me as much as I thought when wearing them.
To make the zipper pocket I made a window using interfacing (place right sides together of fabric and interfacing, stitch the window, slit and pull the interfacing through and then iron the interfacing into place), topstitched in the zipper and then topstitched the actual pocket which means there is only a single layer of material for the pocket instead of the usual two so it sits nice and smooth.

I have a few wrinkles across the front in these, The waistband has loosened off with wearing so they are sitting lower than they should and pooling at the front. I've been trying to avoid unpicking the waistband (I hate unpicking serging!) but I might have to stop avoiding it and do it!

Thursday, May 1, 2014

Fehr Trade 103: a duo of duathlons!

My version:

I reprinted out the pattern (properly this time!) and can now tell you that these are a sz XL with 2cm added to the inner leg seam and 2cm taken from the front side seams. I also took a wedge out of the side of these to get rid of some excess fabric that was pooling there and it also helped straighten up the legs.

Not sure whats going on with my face in these, chalk it up to teenage daughter induced stress!

Fabric is a black matt knit (same as last pair) and a digital print ponte from Spotlight.

I changed the waistband on these to a folded over one, I personally find it a lot more comfortable than an elastic one.

Ambers version:

Hers are a sz S graded out to a M at the waist with 1.5cm added to the inner leg seam only at the top (like Sunni talks about here).

I lengthened these to a full length pair for her and basted them together for a fitting, she has extra width at the calf but are very close fitting at the ankle. The side seams do twist around a bit, next version if she wants them full length I'll take a bit off the front and add it to the back around her lower calf area.

This is the second elastic waistband I've sewn onto these (first one was too tight apparently even through I test fitted her, of course now after a run in them she says they are too loose *eyeroll*). I added a drawstring to the waist, its very easy because of the way the elastic is sewn on, all I had to do was after I had serged the elastic to the waistband was sew a couple of buttonholes at the front then turn and topstitch, it creates a tunnel for the drawstring with no real extra effort.

She did a 4km run in these just after I finished them and they got the thumbs up, she did say the waistband felt too loose on the run so I think the next version I would make a straight size S without grading out at the waist.

Material wise, hers are made out of digital print ponte fabric from Spotlight with the side panel out of the matt black jersey, same fabrics as mine but switched around.