Saturday, October 18, 2014

Colette 1028: Moneta Dress

I didn't get this pattern when it first came out because I didn't think the gathered waist would be that flattering. Since then I've seen a lot of great verisons online and I downloaded it!

As always with Colette patterns, the instructions are fantastic and the fit is pretty good too. This is a XL at the shoulders graded out to a 2xl from the bust down. Its a bit too tight, I'll do a FBA next time, I think that what causing the drag lines at the armholes, it also needs the armholes dropped and a bit of length taken out from the back bodice. I went for sleeves half way inbetween the 3/4 length and the short sleeves. Otherwise everything else is straight out of the printer.

I did drop the neckline down, its very much a boat neck but I like more of a scoop and I added binding to the neckline as well to help lift up the back neck height and because I just don't like the idea of turn and stitch for a knit neckline. This fabric didn't stretch enough though and the band looks a bit ripply

I got this fabric from the clearance table at spotlight, its just a mystery blend knit. Its way too shiny to wear out in public and too clingy too, especially at the back. It doesn't have quite enough stretch either, so its fitting a bit tighter than I'd expected. It honestly didn't look too bad until I sewed it up!

The skirt is gathered using clear elastic. It didn't gather it enough at the front for me and next version I think I'll gather with a few rows of basting stitches and then just reinforce the seam with clear elastic.

So I'll call the pattern a win but this version a fail because of the horrid shiny fabric!

Monday, October 13, 2014

Vogue 8648: Lace dress


I have a wedding coming up in October so needed a special dress for it (any excuse to sew some frosting!)

I bought this fabric a couple of years ago just after I'd started sewing. I found it in Spotlight and fell in love with it back then.....Well, now I look at it and mostly notice the fact that its a poly knit with the lace overlayed and the stretch runs opposite to how I'd prefer - I feel like the lace is on its side but that's what you get for poly knit from spotlight I guess.

Size wise: its a sz 20 with a 1" FBA, 1" swayback and a forward shoulder of 1". I sewed the underbust seam with only a 1/4" seam allowance, I've adjusted the pattern for in the future with another 3/4" of length to the front only to add a bit more length.

The waistband is pleated, easier than I thought even though I wasted a heap of paper trying to understand how to pleat it and how wide to do the pleats. I am pretty happy with my pleat matching at the sides though!

The bodice is lined, I didn't worry about lining the waistband, it seems quite sturdy because of the pleating.

Added pockets from Simplicity 2588. These are my go to in-seam pockets, I like how they attach into the waistband which keeps them in place.

I'm really happy with the bodice fit on this - after a couple more tweaks I think it will be my TNT dress bodice.

Friday, October 3, 2014

McCalls 6953: Chiffon dress


Ambers been wanting a chiffon high-low dress for awhile. I downloaded Lekala 4262 and made a muslin but she didn't like the hem line or the elastic waist. Luckily I had gotten this pattern with my haul from the last Spotlight $5 sale. It still has the high-low hem but has a nice fitted bodice.

Pattern details;
  • This is View C without the hem band (She's 5'4".
  • Sz 14 B-cup with the sides taken in by 1/4".
  • Petite bodice 2"
  • Swayback adjustment 1/2"
  • Changed pleated skirt to gathers
  • Took a wedge out at the top of centre back because the neckline was gaping.
  • Added a skirt lining.
Fabric is a poly chiffon from Spotlight. I underlined the bodice with cotton poplin and also lined the bodice in the cotton poplin. The skirt lining is a poly lining fabric from my stash.

I wanted a free hanging chiffon overlay which I spent ages thinking about. In the end it was pretty simple, it's pretty much the same as the Sewaholic Saltspring dress but opposite sides up. Amber wants another dress similar to this so I'll take some pics and make a tutorial (mostly so I can refer back to it!)

Chiffon overlay hangs free with the top edges of the hem finished

You can access the zipper through the slit

When the dress is zipped up you cant see the slit or zipper in the skirt
I did a rolled hem on the overlocker to the skirt and lining, French seamed the chiffon skirt and used a normal zipper instead of an invisible one, the dress has a bit of bulk at the back and I never really trust an invisible one when the seams a bit bulky plus I'm trying to use my stash and its what I had!

I haven't really sewn with chiffon before but with the underlined bodice the dress has a nice bit of weight to it, the skirts a little bit short, I think having the long hem at the back seems to exaggerate how short the front it so I've added another couple of inches to the length at the front for next time.

In summary, I'm really happy with this pattern, we have another dress planned for Amber and I'd like a maxi rayon version for me!

Thursday, September 25, 2014

Sewaholic 1401: Gabriola Skirt

I've had this pattern since it came out but seeing Julia Bobbins gorgeous skirt made me get it out and get started!
After making the vogue 1247 skirt I really like a straight waistband on me, it makes the skirt hang better and doesn't give the fitting nightmares that I've had on skirts before. All this is missing is some pockets, with all those seam lines on the yoke its crying out for a hidden pocket or time!

Size wise: I used the size 16 and graded up at the waist to about a sz 20. I think this has to be the most easiest skirt to fit I've ever made because I made no other adjustments.

The blue fabric is a rayon from Spotlight, I didn't have quite enough (2.5m of 112cm wide) so I made the skirt side panels less flared at the bottom and used a black cotton poplin for the yoke inserts and waistband. I do wish I'd used a more thicker fabric on the yoke and waistband, it does feel a bit flimsy and could do with a bit more heft. Its showing up pretty lurid on my monitor, but its just a nice bright blue in real life.

The waistband called for interfacing but I used elastic instead.

I love how fitted it is at the waist and hips and how swishy it is to wear, it really is a fantastic pattern and I can see a few more makes in my future!

Monday, September 22, 2014

Vogue 1247: Denim Skirt

I feel like I'm the last person to make this pattern up - I've admired the skirt on so many of my favourite bloggers and finally picked up the pattern when Spotlight did one of their very rare $5 pattern sales.

The pattern goes up to a sz 18 (38-32-42), so I had to grade up about 8" - I did a really simple grade by just adding 2" to each of  the side seams. This made the pockets a bit too close together at the front so I widened them to make it look balanced. Lengthened it by about 4"

I took a wedge out of the front length for my tilted waist. Not sure if I should have taken more out or changed the front darts a bit though because it bunches up when I wear it over leggings, can't see it if I wear my top untucked though.

This is my second version of this skirt - first version was a lovely ikat cotton, it was just too thin though and didn't sit right. The fabric here is a medium weight denim I picked up from a clearing sale. Its lovely and soft, and I used hug and snug binding to do the seams inside.

Its a lot shorter than I'd usually wear a skirt, but since I normally wear skirts over leggings I thought I'd challenge myself!

Wednesday, September 17, 2014

Member in focus on pattern review

When I started sewing one of the first sites I found and joined was Pattern Review, so its a bit of a thrill to be the member in focus this week! Please head over and have a look (I must admit all I can focus on is my photos and how I need to play with the settings again on my camera!)

I am so behind on blogging my latest makes, I've had great sewing mojo lately and am flying through projects but just haven't taken any full photos yet, but here's a couple of sneak peeks;

Wednesday, September 10, 2014

Swoon Patterns: Scarf neck cardigan

I've been searching for a waterfall cardigan pattern for ages, I have a couple of RTW ones that I wear a lot to work that need replacing. I saw this pattern on Thornberry's blog and it seemed to fit all my wants plus a couple more - its a free download (!!!) and it has princess seams.

I cut a sz L and did a 1" FBA. I changed the hem to suit my RTW cardi's, I don't find long cardi's very flattering on me so I like them to sit shorter at the back and sides.

The fabric is a thin rayon jersey from Rathdowne fabrics, its sort of a grey/purple/brown colour.

I left the front centre hem raw and twin needled the bottom hem. I made it all on my serger except for the hem, its a very quick make!
It could do with the shoulders being narrowed next time, but its a casual style and I don't think its that noticeable.